Do you need to replace an aging septic tank? Putting in a new one? Do you believe you can handle it on your own?
This step-by-step guide on installing a septic tank is exactly what you need!
Drainage that is not connected to the mains is a severe matter. Those of us who live in cities often take it for granted that when we flush a toilet or pull a plug, our wastewater simply vanishes. Private off-mains systems, on the other hand, are frequently required in more remote regions, where connecting to the main sewer system is impracticable, costly, or just impossible. Septic tanks are one of the most typical solutions in such circumstances.
If you’re buying a new home with an off-mains system, probably, the builders have already taken care of it, and all you have to worry about now is keeping it operating and maintained. Can you install a septic tank yourself if you’re moving into an existing property that requires one, or if you own an older off-mains system that has to be replaced? These are the questions that will be addressed in this tutorial.
You’ll have mastered all of the legalities, requirements, and rules governing the installation of a household septic system installation by this point. You’ll have created your system to fit your property properly while being fully compliant with all rules and regulations, and you’ll have made an order for the best tank. Now comes the difficult part: putting it all together!
The stages of putting in a septic tank
Inspect tank for damage.
Tanks are usually completely tested and checked before being delivered to you, but it’s not uncommon for them to be damaged during shipping and offloading. Make sure to inspect the tank fully when it comes, as most manufacturers will not accept damage claims after the tank has been installed.
Check you have correct invert depths
During the site survey and design stage of your project, you should have evaluated the depth of your incoming pipes and bought a tank with the necessary invert levels. It’s important to double-check this to make sure the physical tank provided will still connect to your current pipes and stay within the maximum depth allowed.
Siting the tank
Check your chosen installation position against the installation manual’s requirements, as they may specify additional criteria or minimum distances particular to their tank.
Excavate the hole
Make sure it’s big enough for the tank and any recommended backfill, then lay down the proper base (usually concrete) for it to sit on. When excavating your hole, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s detailed health and safety instructions, which will be included in the manual.
Consider drainage falls
This should have been included in your planning, but it’s always a good idea to double-check, especially with a gravity system. Between the house and the tank, they will typically be 1 in 60/70, with a maximum of 1 in 200 for a drainage field.
Place the tank
Lower the tank into the hole with care, using the specified lifting mechanism, and double-check that the inlet and outlet orientations are proper and that the tank is level.
Use correct backfill
The most typical choices are concrete, gravel, or sand, but check the instruction booklet to see what the manufacturer recommends and follow their methods for backfill the location.
Install the inlet and outlet
If everything goes according to plan, this should be a simple task, but if you’re hesitant, see a competent plumber.
Install a septic drainage field
Installing a septic drainage field is covered in detail in our dedicated guide.
Fit correct cover and frame
Manufacturers will always presume that the tank will be placed in a low-traffic region. If this is not the case, you should consult a structural engineer before putting your system in place.
Consider ventilation arrangements
It’s easy to miss this, but it’s critical to make sure your system is properly ventilated to avoid odor problems on site. If you’re not sure what’s ideal for your site, reach out to our technical team for help.
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